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Soap
Making Supply |
Taking
Pride in Quality, Service & Integrity
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Tutorials
~ Melt & Pour |
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Geri
Burgert's Melt & Pour Tutorial
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| Melt and pour soapmaking is easy and fun. It's also
a safe project for households with kids and pets because
you won't be handling dangerous chemicals. Your supplies
can range from simple to as fancy as you wish to make
them. Even cleanup is quick, and you can use your soaps
as soon as they are cool enough to unmold. |
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Base
You will need a quantity of melt
and pour base. A good amount to start with might
be one pound, which will make an average
of four bars of soap. The quality of
base varies widely, so be sure to avoid the inferior
kind you find in craft stores. Base can be plain or
colored, with or without additives. The beauty of specialty
bases such as goatsmilk, Castile, cocoa butter, and
olive is that you won't need to guess how much of these
luxurious enrichments to add to a plain base because
the work has been done for you. The wonderful thing
about melt and pour soap is that you can don't need
to waste mistake or leftover pieces. You can remelt
the base and try again. |
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Scent
Almost any fragrance labeled "safe for body" will work
in melt and pour. Essential
oils are wonderful, but be sure
to add no more than one ounce per pound of base.
Oregon Trails' fragrance
oils are spectacular in melt
and pour and the scents do not fade over time.
Depending on how powerful the scent is, you will need
to add no more than about half an ounce per
pound of base. For a very strong fragrance
oil such as Chai Tea, the amount can drop by half! Be
aware that fragrance oils containing a vanilla component
will probably eventually discolor the soap to a lovely
amber.
NOTE: While all of our fragrances are thoroughly tested
for CP, M&P and all are skin safe, we discourage
the use of spicy fragrances such as Chai Tea & Pumpkin
Pie in leave on products like Creams and Body Butters
as they can be a sensitizer for some people just as
Spicy Essential Oils can as many are made with EO/FO
combinations. |
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Color
There are several ways to color your soap: liquid colorants,
micas, and glitter are a few.
Liquid colorants such as Crystal Colors produce
a vibrant effect in melt and pour soapmaking and don't
morph, unlike with cold process soapmaking. One drop
is plenty to color a pound of base. Too much colorant
may stain your washcloth. If you add too much colorant
by accident, increase the amount of base to compensate.
Micas create a magical impression in clear melt
and pour soap. They reflect the light and shimmer
beautifully. Begin with an eighth of a teaspoon per
pound of base and stir it well to disperse lumps.
You can also mix the mica into a small amount of base
first, then incorporate it into the larger batch.
If you want a "wow" effect in your soap, try cosmetic
glitter. A tiny amount goes a long way. Add it when
the melted soap begins to thicken and stir it continually
before pouring to prevent the glitter from sinking
to the bottom of the mold. |
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Other Additives
You can add lots of interesting things to melt and pour:
botanicals such as calendula petals, exfolliants such
as fruit seeds, shea butter. the sky's the limit! Limit
the total amount of liquid additives to no more than
one ounce per pound of base, though, or you will notice
a decrease in lather or hardness. |
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Molds
Melt and pour molds must be able to withstand heat.
They don't have to be complicated: clean food storage
containers can make wonderful soap loaves. On the other
hand, molds such as the Milky Way series are truly impressive
and create gorgeous soaps. When you are comfortable
with making soap in smaller molds, don't overlook the
Ultra Molds for a spectacular professional-looking bar! |
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Tools & Supplies
You will need a good-size heat-tempered glass measuring
cup (Pyrex is fine), a knife, a spoon, a spray bottle filled with rubbing alcohol, and measuring spoons. I
prefer using my microwave to melt the base but you can
also use a double boiler. |
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Instructions
Have all supplies on hand. Slice and cube one pound
of melt and pour base, and place it in a measuring cup.
Melt the base in a microwave for no more than 50 seconds
at a time, checking after each cycle to see if it is
liquid. Do not overheat the base!
When the soap is melted, remove it from the microwave
and stir it gently with a spoon. Stir occasionally
until the side of the measuring cup feels warm, not
burning hot. When the soap is about 130 degrees (don't
worry if it 's slightly more or less), add the colorant
and stir. Then put in any additives, and finally the
fragrance. Stir, stir, stir! Then pour the soap into
a mold and spray it lightly with rubbing alcohol to
remove bubbles.
Let the soap set for at least a half hour before
you attempt to move it. The soap will need to cool
down for several hours before you unmold it, especially
if the mold is detailed. When you are ready, press
firmly on the underside of the mold with your thumbs.
If the soap does not release easily, give it more
time. If it is still stubborn after several hours,
you may place the mold in a freezer for five to ten
minutes at a time, after which it should fall out
of the mold. Do not freeze the soap for a longer time
or it will begin to sweat as it defrosts. |
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Play Time!
Are you creative? Warning: Melt and pour soapmaking
is addictive! Here are a few ideas for fun projects
you can try. |
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Toy Soaps
Children love soaps with plastic or rubber toys embedded
in them, especially scented with fruity fragrances such
as Peach Mango. This project is best done with a very
clear base such as Olive Oil melt and pour. You can
easily make this bath treat by pouring a layer of soap
about a third of the way into your mold and letting
it set until it forms a skin. Spray the soap with rubbing
alcohol and place the toy facedown into the mold. Then
pour melted soap up to the top. |
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Celestial Lights
Pour a quarter-inch layer of 24Karat Gold Mica colored
soap into a shallow plastic container and let it harden.
Then use a small star-shaped cookie cutter to make tiny
soap stars. Pour a layer of Olive Oil base fragranced
with Moonlight Stroll into a soap mold, about a third
way up. When a skin forms, spray the layer with rubbing
alcohol and place the gold star in the middle. Lightly
spray again with rubbing alcohol. Pour a layer of Olive Oil base colored with Brightest Blue colorant over the
first and lightly spray again with alcohol to prevent
bubbles. The finished soap will look like a sparkly
star hanging in the night sky. |
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Cathedral Window
Chop up bright-colored soap and spray it lightly with
rubbing alcohol. Melt an opaque base such as Creamy
Cocoa Butter, Creamy Goatsmilk, or Gentle Castile and
add a rich, mysterious scent such as Amber Dawn but
leave the soap uncolored. Pour the opaque base into
the mold, up to about two thirds. Put in the chopped
soap and top off the mold with the opaque base. Lightly
spray the top with rubbing alcohol to prevent bubbles.
The finished soap will have a stained-glass look. This
is really nice in a loaf mold because the slices of
soap reveal the "glass" hidden within. |
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Rainbow Bar
This project is easy but requires careful timing. The
amount of soap base you need will depend on the size
of your Ultra Mold. I have a 20-bar mold, so I made
seven layers, each one pound of base. It helps to cut
up lots of soap ahead of time, and to have the colorants
lined up in rainbow order.
Use Deep Amethyst, Brightest Blue, Juicy Green Pear,
Sunny Yellow, Sweet Orange, Ruby Red, and Wineberry
(or Crystal Colors of your own choice).
Choose a single fragrance such as Mardi Gras and
measure out .5 to .7 ounces, depending on your preference
for strength of scent. Place 1 lb of chopped clear
Olive Oil base in a heatproof glass cup and melt it,
then stir in the first color and add the fragrance.
Pour the soap into the Ultra Mold (it will look very
sparse for this layer) and spray heavily with rubbing
alcohol.
Immediately melt the second batch and choose the
second color, then add fragrance. Don’t pour
this layer until the first one sets up, like the skin
on gelatin. You should be able to touch the molded
soap with your finger without the liquid layer oozing
through. On the other hand, don’t wait until
the first layer is completely hard or it might separate
later. After you have poured this second layer, spray
again with rubbing alcohol and prepare the next layer,
and so on.
With proper timing, the layers will stick together
nicely, creating a prismatic effect. After you have
poured the last layer, don’t forget to spray
it with alcohol, to avoid bubbles on the surface.
The soap mold will be quite heavy (7 lb). Cover
the top lightly with plastic wrap to keep out dust
and dirt, and place the mold in a cool and dry place.
It may take several days before you can remove the
dividers, since melt and pour soap clings to plastic.
If you encounter difficulties after a few days, place
the mold in a freezer for no more than 15 minutes
at a time, and try to remove the dividers. Mine slid
right out without this step. You’ll be fascinated
by the beauty of the finished bars! |
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Wrapping
Melt and pour soap should be wrapped within a day after
unmolding. Especially in humid weather, the soap’s
glycerin can rise to the surface if the soap is not
protected, which creates an ugly effect. Use plastic
wrap or shrink wrap to ensure a tight fit. |
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